The Ultimate Guide to Face Serums: What You Need to Know Before You Buy
Face serums have become a staple in many skincare routines, but they are often the most expensive products on the shelf. So, are they really worth the hype and the price?
Let’s break down what serums are, how they work, and how to pick the best one for your skin type.
What Exactly Is a Face Serum?
The term “serum” originally comes from the medical world. Blood serum is the clear, yellowish liquid left after blood clots, free of cells but full of proteins and nutrients.
Face serums borrow their name from this because of their lightweight, clear texture.
In skincare, a serum is a product with a jelly-like or liquid consistency that contains concentrated active ingredients.
Unlike moisturizers or toners, serums are designed to deliver powerful ingredients directly to your skin.
How Are Serums Different From Toners and Moisturizers?
Toners mostly contain water and sometimes alcohol, aiming to balance your skin’s pH or remove leftover cleansers. They evaporate quickly and do not provide long-lasting hydration.
Moisturizers, on the other hand, contain fats or oils that form a protective barrier on the skin. They lock in moisture and help keep skin hydrated.
Serums are lightweight and usually water-based, but they need a moisturizer afterward to seal in the benefits.
What About Face Oil Serums?
Some products labeled as “serums” are actually oils. These oil-based serums don’t evaporate like water-based ones and are hydrophobic, meaning they repel water.
I prefer to call these “face oils” since they don’t share the typical characteristics of serums.
Oils don’t require a follow-up moisturizer, unlike water-based serums, which need occlusive creams or lotions to lock them in.
Types of Face Serums and How to Choose the Right One
There’s no one-size-fits-all serum. The best serum depends on your skin concerns and your Baumann Skin Type.
Whether you want to brighten, hydrate, reduce redness, or fight aging, there’s a serum designed for you.
Brightening Serums
Brightening serums are perfect if you struggle with dark spots, hyperpigmentation, or uneven skin tone. They contain ingredients like antioxidants, exfoliants, and skin-lightening agents.
One standout product is the Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum. It uses innovative technology to brighten skin effectively.
These serums suit all skin types but require a moisturizer tailored to your oily or dry skin.
Examples for Dry Skin:
PCA Skin Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum
Revision Skincare C+ Correcting Complex 30%
Obagi Nu-Derm Blend Fx (Hydroquinone Free)
Examples for Oily Skin:
Obagi Nu-Derm FX Starter System
PCA Skin Pigment Gel PRO
La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum
Vitamin C serums also brighten skin but aren’t as strong in blocking tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in pigmentation.
Hydrating Serums
Hydrating serums are loaded with humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin. These ingredients pull water to your skin’s surface, creating a radiant, glowing look.
They’re great for achieving a dewy complexion but might look shiny in photos or videos.
If you have oily skin, a hydrating serum might be enough without a moisturizer. Dry skin types, however, should always follow up with a rich moisturizer to lock in hydration.
Top Hydrating Serums:
ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster, La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5, CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, ClarityRx Daily Dose of Water Hydrating Serum
Serums for Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin needs special care.
Serums for sensitive skin should include anti-inflammatory ingredients and avoid harsh components like Vitamin C, retinol, or acids, especially for rosacea or stinging skin types.
There are four types of sensitive skin to consider: acne-prone, rosacea, stinging, and allergic. Knowing your type helps you pick the safest, most effective serum.
Serums for Oily Skin
Oily skin benefits from oil-free serums that don’t clog pores. When choosing, consider whether you want anti-acne, anti-aging, lightening, or soothing effects.
Most water-based serums work well for oily skin unless they contain heavy oils. Always check ingredient lists to avoid breakouts.
Serums for Dry Skin
Hyaluronic acid serums are excellent for dry skin but must be paired with a barrier-repair moisturizer for lasting hydration. For dry skin, sometimes facial oils offer better moisture than serums alone.
You can also use serums targeting specific issues like hyperpigmentation or rosacea, then rely on a good moisturizer to keep skin comfortable.
Antioxidant Serums
Antioxidants combat free radicals that age the skin. These serums help prevent wrinkles but don’t erase existing ones.
Essopi Triple Antioxidant Serum, with green tea and resveratrol, is a dermatologist favorite for oily and combination skin.
Collagen Serums: Myth vs. Reality
Many collagen serums claim to boost skin collagen, but collagen molecules are too large to penetrate skin.
Instead, focus on serums with retinol, vitamin C, or exosomes, which stimulate collagen production from within.
I interviewed a cardiologist who developed an exosome serum called Plated Skin Science Intense. This product helps boost collagen much more effectively than traditional collagen creams.
Anti-Aging Serums
Anti-aging serums come in many varieties, including:
Antioxidant serums, Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) serums, Exosome serums, Firming or facelift serums, Growth factor serums, Peptide serums, Retinol serums
Each targets wrinkles and aging differently. Want personalized advice? Take the Baumann Skin Type quiz to find the perfect fit.
Morning vs. Night Serums
Morning serums should protect skin from pollution and oxidative damage. Antioxidants and ingredients that support your skin’s circadian rhythm are ideal.
Night serums focus on repair. Ingredients like retinol work best at night, helping skin recover from daytime damage. Always start retinol slowly—once every three nights—to avoid irritation.
Benefits of Using a Facial Serum
Serums provide targeted treatment for:
Aging, Inflammation, Dryness, Pigmentation, Skin tone, Texture
They deliver concentrated actives deep into the skin, often more effectively than moisturizers.
Downsides and Safety Tips
The main downside? Cost. Drugstore serums often lack potent ingredients. Medical-grade serums, though pricier, typically offer better results, especially exosome and vitamin C products.
Safety tips:
Avoid retinyl palmitate (linked to irritation).
Don’t use vitamin C serums that have turned dark.
Avoid growth factors containing EGF, linked to cancer risk.
Plant-derived stem cells and exosomes usually don’t work.
Serums to Avoid if You Have Rosacea
Rosacea skin is sensitive to acids and exfoliants. Avoid:
AHA serums, Strong exfoliants, Vitamin C serums
Retinoids can be tried cautiously once rosacea calms. Start with low strength, follow a calming routine, and monitor skin closely.
Final Thoughts: Choose Serums Based on Your Skin
There are countless serums available, but finding the right one is key. Don’t waste money on products that don’t match your skin’s needs.
Take the Baumann Skin Type quiz for customized serum recommendations tailored to you. With the right serum, your skin will look healthier, brighter, and more youthful.